Paella Valenciana

Sofregit is the most important thing about Paella, says Javier, who is from Valencia and is very very proud about making it properly.
Because Paella Valenciana can only be made one way, with only a few accepeted additions and perhaps substitutions. There are some things that must never be added. Pepper? No. Onions? No! Chorizo? Run for your life!!! Definitely NOT!!!

So what does goes in and how is it done?

Javier has eaten Paella Valenciana ever since he was born, every Sunday. Now he lives here in the UK, but keeps up the tradition as often as he can.  He has cooked many Paella's in his life and everyone, he says is slightly different. But the basic principles are the same and very strictly followed.

The Ingredients:

1 small Chicken, cut into pieces

1 Wild Rabbit, cut into pieces

7 Pork Ribs, chopped into pieces (I used a Meat Cleaver to chop through the bones. I would recommended getting a Butcher to do this if you haven't done it before)

10 Duck Filets

(These are the sort of meats that are accepted to go into this Paella. Snails are sometimes added. A mix is great or any combination of the above)

ca. 900g Paella Rice (no precise measurement as you will see later)

ca. 250ml Tomato Passata 

3 Garlic, cloves, chopped and left with the Tomato Passata (as they will go in together)

1 large Red Bell Pepper, cut into strips

a selection of green Beans, French Beans,  Runner Beans, Mange Tout, Broad Beans (that sort of thing)

Sweet Spanish Paprika (not the smoked one!)

Saffron ...... or this orange Food Colouring which is apparently ok to use. 

(I strongly disagree, but Javier says it's too expensive to use Saffron. Well my readers, what do you think? He is being so particular about this dish and then he is adding a Food Colouring? We must do something!!!! Should anyone have a spare couple of grams of Saffron laying around and would like to donate them to my flatmate, please let me know and it will be a worthwhile cause and greatly appreciated.)

Olive Oil for frying 

Water 

A few fresh sprigs of Rosemary

I also made a simple clear stock from the bones that where over after dividing the Chicken and Rabbit into the pieces and persuaded Javier that it should be added to the dish. Believe me, it took some persuading. Usually it should only be cold water. But since there was nothing 'foreign' in the stock, just the animals that are part of the dish, and I didn't want to waste any of their flavour, the stock was accepted. Phew!

So we put a suitable size Paella Pan onto its Burner and Olive Oil is added. Javier sprinkles the Oil with Salt. That is the sort of thing I could see myself doing for no particular reason, but I forgot to inquire why exactly he seasoned the Oil instead of the meat.

 

All the pieces of meat go in together and start to fry. Javier stirs and turns everything over continuously.

After about 10 minutes the meat is brown all over. At some point during this frying Javier added the sweet Paprika, I wasn't looking and missed it... 'Javi, how am I supposed to write your recipe when you do things secretly???' 

He pushes the meat towards the sides and adds the vegetables. I had to fish out the Mange Tout from the mix, like Cinderella, as it is too delicate to start cooking at this stage and will be added a bit later.

We have now reached the stage of the all important Sofregit. At the bottom of the pan all this stirring and frying creates a crust with all the little bits that get brown and caramelised and produce all the good flavour. He takes his time during this stage and I cautiously take a very close look, worried that it may get past the caramelised stage and start to burn. But when he adds the Tomatoes with the Garlic, the smell is just so amazingly delicious all my worries are gone and I am just swooning over the pan.

After a few more stirs and turns my wonderful stock goes in, followed by a lot of cold water. How much water? Well enough to cover the meat generously, I'd say. The dreaded food colouring is sprinkled over at this moment. You remember how I feel about it? Please consider checking your cupboards, we must get the boy some real Saffron!

Even Javier is impressed with colour that the stock and water has taken on now. All that 'sofreigiting' has payed off.

This stage is basically creating its own favourful stock and cooking the meat, so it will take about 30-40 minutes. During this time the stock will reduce to about 3 cm low, from the bottom of the pan. 

Oh and the Mange Tout also went in at this stage.

It is customary to ask the guests, friends or family who are eating, to come and taste the stock at this point, to decide if there is enough salt. When everyone is happy, the rice can go in.

The trick is to draw a line straight accross the middle of the pan with the rice, then distribute is gently all over, and then take the pan by it's handles and chimmy it around, so that all the rice is covering the bottom of the pan evenly. The little interfering me was quite sure it needed a bit more rice. So I sprinkled in a little more. Javier probably was rolling his eyes behind my back.

From now on the rice needs 11 minutes to cook. So check your watches everyone! Javi turns down all the burners to minimum. The Pan can now not be touched anymore. No more stirring, no more adding anything, not even water, because the other very important thing, is to create the famous and much desired crust on the bottom. The Socarrat. To achieve this the burners are turned back to high for just a few minutes at the end. With a keen nose you can hover over the pan and smell the toasty aroma, when it is done.

 As the rice was soaking up the water and it threatened to be going too dry too quickly, Javier took a couple of large wet cloth kitchen towels and covered the whole pan up with these, to stop the steam from escaping and help cook the rice. This little rescue method is not a mistake as such, but needn't have to be part of the making and was probably my fault as I had added that little bit of extra rice. I am including it here though, because I think it is a 'good tip to know'.

Just before serving a few sprigs of fresh Rosemary are placed around the Paella. The aroma and flavour that comes off from these is quite unexpectedly delicious.

The Paella is now served like this: 

The whole pan is placed on a wooden board in the middle of the table. Everyone gets a spoon and a side plate for the bones. Sitting around the pan, everyone literally eats from the same pan. Just start in your little corner and work your way towards the middle. I absolutely love this way of eating best about this whole dish.

Razor Clams with Garlic and Parsley

Today the Fishmonger had a lovely collection of fresh Seafood on display, but the one thing I was drawn to were the Razor Clams. Not often have I seen these in the local Fishmongers. In fact I think it was never. Though in the Mediterranean Countries that I have visited they are always featuring on the Seafood Counters. How often have I wished that I could buy them. Well today was my chance!

As with all good seafood it doesn't need many ingredients, the less the better really.

So here is a recipe from Spain, the way Clams would be eaten on the Beach straight from the hot griddle.

Ingredients:

6 Razor Clams, washed thoroughly

2 Garlic Cloves, crushed

1 tbs fresh Parsley, chopped

1 tbs Extra Virgin Olive Oil

On a hot, lightly oiled heavy based pan place the Razor Clams flesh side facing up first. A couple of minutes and then turn them flesh side down and let the meaty part get just a little colour for a minute or two. That's all. Take them out and place onto a warmed serving platter.

To the pan add the remaining Olive oil, Garlic and Parsley and let it combine with the flavoured juices from the Clams. If the pan is dry add a splash of water.

Spoon this over the Clams and garnish with a Lemon Wedge.

Tortilla Espanola (Spanish Omelette)

Long gone are the days of the Spanish Nightstops. Barcelona and Madrid used to be on my frequent travel list. Such a great Country with wonderful Food and Culture and famously passionate People.

When we had a flight leaving in the morning the catering company in Madrid used to bring us a Tortilla Espanola along with the usual Bacon, Eggs and Sausage we get in a foil container. Hot or cold this is a delicious meal, any time of the day really, and it was always very welcome.

Here I have created my best version of the Spanish Omelette.

Ingredients:

4 Medium Potatoes

1 Onion,

4 Free Range Eggs

1 Spanish Red Pepper

Olive Oil for frying

Salt and Spanish Smoked Paprika for seasoning

Cut the Potatos, Onion and Pepper into quarters and then slice them.

On a medium heat fry the Potatos, Onion and Pepper in a little olive oil for 20 miutes, giving them a chefy toss about every 2 minutes.

After 6 minutes put on a lid in between the tosses to help the potatos cook.

In a large Bowl whisk the Eggs until frothy. Getting lots of air into them will make the Tortilla rise.

Once the Potatos are soft add them to the bowl with the eggs and stir well. Add a little more salt at this point to season the eggs as well.

Give your pan a quick clean and heat up a little more olive oil.

Pour in the egg and potato mixture and chimmy it a little to start the omlette off.

Once it's set and nicely browned, put a lid on the top and with a big swerve turn the omlette over and onto the lid (a big plate can be used as well). Then slide it back into the pan and continue to cook until the other side has set as well.

Leave the Tortilla to rest for a few minutes, then cut it into wedges and serve with some Tomato Salsa.

Tomato & Coriander Salsa

Ingredients:

2 Tomatoes, diced

1/4 Red Onion, finely diced

1 long red Chilli, chopped finely

1 tbs fresh Coriander, roughly chopped

Sea Salt, Fresh ground Pepper and a pinch of natural Sugar

Mix everything together and leave to macerate for a little while. Notice: no oil or vinegar. This Salsa is fresh and clean tasting with a little kick from the chilli.