There it is again, the old wise man's saying; 'If you haven't got anything nice to say, don't say anything at all.'
Well I do have nice things to say about Maafushi, a local island in the Maldives, that since 2010 opened it's guesthouse doors to tourists for very reasonable prices.
First of all I like that the government changed it's mind about letting the locals make their own money from tourism rather then giving it all to the big hotel chains. Secondly the locals are doing a wonderful job, being some of the most welcoming, friendly and gently beautiful hosts I've encountered on my travels.
All of the Guest houses are very new and built to a high standard. Even better than expected for the price. A funny thing I noticed is that the menus have all exactly the same dishes. You'll find out what is actually available when you try to order something. Likelihood is that they don't have it. Though I'm feeling quite enchanted by that, and think it is only normal for an island like this, relying on daily incoming goods by boat. The food I did have was nicely prepared.
The excursions on offer are nice looking days trips to picnic islands, snorkeling, diving, fishing and all manner of water sports, and not at all dear. The guesthouses have their own boats and they charge the same prices, so no need to shop around. Definitely something I would recommend doing. In fact, do one excursion every day!
Unfortunately that's pretty much where it ends with the 'nice' things.
On this occasion, and just because I think it's fair, here I will list some of the things I didn't like about Maafushi.
First, there is still great need for development and cleaning up the shores from debris and floating water bottles.
Then with the influx of money I can only hope that many of the local buildings will be made to appear more pleasing rather then being eyesores as they are now.
Also Maafushi's beach now allows tourists to wear bikinis. This is a good thing, I wouldn't really like to sit on a beach fully dressed, would you? The beach, by the way, for Maldivian standards, is pretty average when it comes to looks.
Finally my biggest bugbear however has to be the imposed alcohol absence.
Holiday I associate with having fun. On my usual holiday I will definitely have a drink at sunset, sometimes 2 or 3 and occasionally loose count. For someone to forbid me to have a glass of wine with my dinner or otherwise is just plain unacceptable. I realise it's a Muslim country, I respect the religion and will never question what they do or don't do. But I am not Muslim not even while I am on my holiday. I'm paying you my money to stay on your island and then I'm told that I can't do what is perfectly normal for me?
Not being able to have a drink, I associate with work, being in hospital or being imprisoned. Not with being on holiday. The sad truth is, I felt a little bit imprisoned on Maafushi.
One more thing that really needs to be improved is the acces to the island. One scheduled boat from Male at 1500, taking 1 1/2 to 2 hours, and one going to Male at 0730 is not enough. Who in their right mind wants to get up before the cockerel on their holiday or get to your destination at sunset, missing half of the day?
Yes. My Rant is now over, you'll be glad to hear.
Will I return? Yes, provided the transport is better and I can have my glass of wine to accompany the stunningly beautiful sunsets.
Meanwhile I will miss the wonderful locals and staff with their warm smiles and friendly chats.
